E3d v5 marlin max temp

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Please download a browser that supports JavaScript, or enable it if it's disabled i. This is a rundown of the firmware changes you will need to make in order to use the E3D Cyclops hot end. This will be different depending on what printer you have, but in this example I am using a generic machine with a RAMBo board and Marlin firmware. The main issue is that the E3D shares the same heater between both extruders. We are going to trick the firmware by telling it that both extruders use the same thermistor pin.

You will also need to make the usual changes to Configuration. However, if you want to have it controlled by software via the Fan 0 port, make the following changes. Also remember to configure MatterControl for the shared heater. Looks like your connection to MatterHackers Community was lost, please wait while we try to reconnect. Firmware configuration for the E3D Cyclops This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.

Reply Quote 0 1 Reply Last reply. Loading More Posts 1 Posts. Reply Reply as topic.The E3D is a high-performance hotend that can replace the stock Solidoodle hotend offering higher reliability thanks to a one-piece, actively cooled, all-metal assembly.

These instructions do not address any of the other modifications you may need to make for these more advanced applications such as printing in different materials. They are intended for a consumer who is comfortable with basic tools and with their Solidoodle 2 or 3, and fairly patient, but who doesn't know much of the specialized lingo or techniques of tinkering.

Read through them all the way and see if every step makes sense; if so, you can do the E3D upgrade. And if not, you may wish to ask, as the author of this page, HunterGreenwould be glad to improve their clarity. You may already have upgraded the power supply on your Solidoodle. If not, you want to do that before this upgrade, since apparently the E3D draws more power than the stock hotend, and as the stock power supply is barely adequate to the original configuration.

Although it is still a good idea and will most likely help in the long run. Order an 1. You don't need the Bowden version. During the assembly of the E3D in the next step, you will need to partially install and connect it up. Prepare your printer for this by:. The red and blue connectors that Solidoodle uses to hook the extruder heater and thermistor on have some nice benefits: you can easily pop off one extruder and pop on another, since the cables running to the head stay there.

However, the particular AWG connectors they chose are not very common and can be hard to crimp. When installing the E3D, you have several options to choose between:. These instructions are derived from E3D's published assembly directions and the derivation is done with permission from SanjayM. I've simply edited in a few amendments and clarifications for how they apply to the Solidoodle. Depending on what connectors you chose earlier, you may be skipping some of these steps.

If you're hooking the E3D thermistor to a Solidoodle or any other connector that already has wires, skip step 3.

If you're just using a Solidoodle thermistor, skip steps 3 to 7. First, wrap a small amount of kapton tape around the crimped ferrules, to ensure they don't short against one another. Insulate the thermistor legs with more kapton tape. Ensure you insulate right up to the base of the glass bead by sliding a strip up between the legs, then sticking the leg to it, then matching it on the other side of the leg with another piece of the same size.

Do this on both legs to fully insulate them, so there is no bare wire. Optionally, for better heat conduction, you might want to consider using fire cement to fix the thermistor in place. Another alternative is a little patch or two of aluminum foil placed over the hole before pushing the thermistor in place; this can secure things nicely and provide good heat conduction, but be careful the foil doesn't touch the legs of the thermistor, causing an electrical short.

At this point, make sure the assembled E3D fits physically, before you start doing any wiring. If it doesn't sit as far back as your old extruder, that may be okay, as alignment isn't as critical as with the old PEEK barrel. You may want to set a box or something on your print bed for it to rest on, to avoid putting strain on the wires. Connect the wires for the thermistor and heating block to the Solidoodle. If you installed the thermistor wires to a connector, you can just snap it in blue goes to white.

You may also have to connect the red wires from the heating block to a connector at this point temporarily or permanently as you see fitor wire it up directly if you prefer. You will also need to connect the fan wires to a 12V power supply. You can splice into the power supply for the fan on the back of the extruder, or run wires back to outside the case to tie into the 12V power screw terminals there but don't tie them to the heater power supply -- the fan needs to be on all the time the printer is on.

Note that there is a polarity to the wires from the fan, but depending on the model of fan you got, there may be no indication of which wire is which, so connect them temporarily, and if the fan doesn't come on, reverse them; only finalize the connection once you're sure it works.

Note that this wiring is all temporary, so don't feel a need to make anything fit snugly or be tidy yet. There's still some more installation to do, but first you have to do firmware updates. You will need to update the Solidoodle's firmware to adjust a few key things about the configuration, notably the type of thermistor being used, and the maximum allowable temperature. You need to do this before you complete the last steps of assembly, since they involve running the temperature to much higher than the firmware currently allows.Discussion in ' E3D-v6 and Lite6 ' started by rexsolomonSep 8, Joined: Sep 8, Messages: 15 Likes Received: Hello All, This is my first post, so apologies if this has been discussed and solved in this forum elsewhere if it did, those solutions did not appear in any Google search results I've tried.

And please, do kindly update the E3D's instructions for the PT amplifier. I thankfully have the habit of purchasing two of each item as I have in my recent V6, Titan and PT purchase order to easily and confidently verify that hardware isn't the problem. You've got great products E3D! The more news on the web of successful installations by people upgrading their 3D printers with V6, Titan and PTs to enable printing with new, high temperature filament can only be even more beneficial to E3D sales.

Looking forward to your response. Thank you. He mentioned that he contacted E3D but the thread ended without clear resolution. Surely someone at E3D with the PT team knows how to get this amplifier defined correctly in Marlin. PsyVision Moderator. Joined: Sep 4, Messages: Likes Received: Hello PsyVision - thank you for the reply!

E3D-v6 Troubleshooting

So the general process is: 1. Arduino is installed. Generic stable Marlin is installed. Vendor specific Marlin code overwrites the generic stable Marlin code. The code is compiled and written to the firmware.

Oftentimes however as is the case of Lulzbot Taz5 the vendor specific Marlin code in step 3 does not include the PT which however does exist in the generic stable Marlin code but is overwritten. Having been a programmer in a past life, I am currently doing a compare and edit on Lulzbot's code in all the files to be used to overwrite the generic stable Marlin code to re-include the PT My editing efforts will eventually be of benefit to me, but it certainly won't be of benefit to the thousands of people looking towards purchasing the PT to print high-temp filament, since most of them won't have the patience or expertise to hack the code.

I think that is where E3D is today vis-a-vis the PT I'm just like the rest - thinking that this editing is too much of an investment in time - and perhaps simply purchasing a thermocouple would be easier.

As such, perhaps some expert at E3D on the PT can simply make available, the lines of code for each file, such as Configuration. There shouldn't be that many really.In the following stages we are going to configure the HotEnd in firmware then go on to do the final hot-tighten of the HotEnd. This can be done either on or off your printer, however where practical we recommend doing it off your printer, then mounting.

Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. If you have a nonV system see this forum post. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation. In newer versions of Marlin there are extra features for Thermal Runaway Protection should your thermistor come loose. Set the Minimum defect temperature to ensure that the thermistor shorting out is caught by the firmware.

New in Online Configuration Tool v are the two options to also improve safety:. Decouple hold variance and Decouple min temp. These must be set appropriately for your system to ensure that they work properly.

That is correct. The thermistor can only safely go up tobut the rest of the hot end is capable of going much higher. If you want to print at higher temperatures, consider installing a thermocouple instead. Edit Options History.

e3d v5 marlin max temp

PID Tuning. Add Comment. Maybe the whole extruder can but not the thermistor. Add Comment Cancel. View Statistics:.Discussion in ' Troubleshooting ' started by RobotronFeb 16, Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums! Robotron New Member.

Joined: Sep 9, Messages: 12 Likes Received: 4. I just installed a E3D v6 Hotend and i am getting the following error. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem may be? Joined: Jan 14, Messages: 42 Likes Received: The installation instructions for the E3D mention that you need to change your thermistor configuration in your firmware. Did you do this? If not then I suspect that is the issue, it uses a different thermistor type so the voltage-to-temperature calculation the firmware does would be wrong if it still thought you had the Hexagon's thermistor connected.

Joined: Feb 21, Messages: 22, Likes Received: 7, Try reading the resistance of the thermistor from where it connects on the RAMPS board -- you should get about k ohms. Sanity check the thermistor wiring as well. While woferry is right that you need to reconfigure the thermistor type in the firmware if you swapped to the E3D thermistor, it would not make the reading that far off Do you suggest i try and take out the wires running threw the threm and reinstalling them to see if they are shorting out each other?

PNG File size: LCD display. Do you think the whole E3D is defective or just a defective thermistor? You want to read the wires plugged into that port back to the thermistor not the board itself. So disconnect the thermistor wires from the RAMPS and then read with the meter the resistance of the wires going back to the thermistor. If you are reading 1. Just the thermistor is the issue here. Mike Kelly Volunteer. Joined: Mar 11, Messages: 6, Likes Received: 2, Probably shorting against the heater block Follow the resistance starting at the first thermistor connector and work from there.

You're looking for around kohms.

e3d v5 marlin max temp

Joined: Jun 14, Messages: 13 Likes Received: 3. I am having the same issue. I installed the e3dv6 along with the pt stud. My screen says maxtemp error and shows the hot end temp at ? I followed installation instructions for both changing the firmware settings. Any other ideas on what could be wrong.

You must log in or sign up to reply here.Inadequate cooling is the most common cause of problems, accounting for nearly half of all issues reported to us. Consistent performance of the extruder is heavily dependent on having a sharp temperature differential between the nozzle and where the cold filament enters. If the unit is not cooled properly, filament will melt too high in the unit and cause jamming. The entirety of the heatsink must be kept cool at all times during printing.

For this to happen enough airflow must be directed at the heatsink, and that airflow must be distributed over the whole heatsink.

The use of the supplied 30mm fan and duct is highly recommended, the supplied fan has adequate airflow CFM and the duct is specifically designed to aim that airflow at the fins of the heatsink. An easy way to check that your heatsink has sufficient air flow is to simply feel the heatsink with a finger after a print has been running for some time. Be careful not to touch the heater-block, it will burn you instantly The entirety of the heatsink should be cool to the touch, including the bottom fins closest to the hot parts.

Like the heatsink and fan cooling your CPU, proper thermal conduction is necessary for the heatsink to work. In the case of your E3D hot end, the threaded heat-break tube should be snugly tightened into the heatsink otherwise the threads will not make sufficient surface contact to conduct heat. If you are printing in hot climates or continue to have issues, a liberal coating of thermal paste on the upper heat-break threads will ensure much better thermal contact with the heatsink.

Even with thermal paste the threads can vibrate loose and cause performance issues. To combat this heat up the heatsink with a heat gun and then thread in and tighten the heat break tube with two pairs of pliers. The heatsink should contract around the heatbreak when it cools and ensure a solid connection.

Choosing slicer settings is a bit of an art and everyone has their particular preferences as to how they print. The following guidance is to help people avoid common configuration pitfalls. A common issue is massively excessive retraction distances.

e3d v5 marlin max temp

In direct configurations retraction of 0. We use around 0. For PLA we stick with retraction settings no higher than 0. Bowden configurations are more tricky as the amount of retraction needed is dependent on factors such as the length of tubing and the stiffness of the filament has more impact on the needed retraction. A good starting place is around the 2mm mark, which you can increase if required. Retractions of 5mm or more are troublesome as they pull hot filament up into the cold areas of the hotend where they can freeze, adhere and jam.

You should be able to print at both very high, and very low speeds with your E3D hotend, but you may need to adjust your temperatures. Very high speeds will require higher temperatures in order to melt the filament quickly enough as it passes through the hotend.

Very slow prints do not require as high a temperature. Debris, dust, scorched carbonised plastic, contaminants in your filament, all of these things can enter and accumulate in the hotend. Debris can then block or partially obstruct the very small hole in the tip of the nozzle. This can be as subtle as high extrusion force, or thin ribbon like extrudate, or it can simply be a complete blockage of the nozzle where no plastic can pass through at all.

There is a fantastic guide to unblocking nozzles present on the Bukobot website which shows a range of techniques and procedures. There are a huge number of filament vendors out there, to cater to all needs and budgets. The E3D hotends are designed to cope with and print the vast majority of filaments on the market. Filament that is too big will have excessive friction in the hotend. Filament that is too thin will buckle or snake inside the hotend and jam.

3D printing guides - Using Marlin's PID autotune

Be aware that just making a couple of measurements on the start of a spool will not reveal if the filament has bulges where the diameter of the filament is too wide, or hard kinks that will not easily pass down the hotend. Filament can also be out-of-round or oval in cross section, this can lead to deceptive measurements if you do not measure your filament at multiple angles.

e3d v5 marlin max temp

This may be due to additives added to bulk-out the filament and reduce costs, particularly in the cheaper filaments. Ultimately the solution is here is to stick to good quality filament. Black is often a troublesome colour as unscrupulous manufacturers can easily hide low quality recycled regrind behind lots of black pigment. You cannot use 1.Our market-leading Hot End: all-metal design, British engineering, high-temperature performance. Customize your V6 to suit your 3D printer, and add upgrades to take your 3D printing to the next level.

Add a nozzle fun pack to try printing at different resolutions, experience large-format 3D printing with a Power Up! High Temperature Performance All-metal design for reliable high-temperature printing. Easily print any filament on the market with less stringing and clogging. Switch up your HotEnd with the full E3D ecosystem of blocks, nozzles, and more! We can help with everything from mounting to troubleshooting with our Wiki and dedicated support team.

If you would like to know more about the design process, check out the blog post! Assembly guidelines for the v6 can be found here. Our signature all-metal design allows you to reliably print high temperature materials, and we've added extra functionality with soft and flexible filaments.

This opens up a huge range of new opportunities for your printer. The PTFE filament guide inside the V6 HotEnd is never subjected to high temperatures, so there is no risk of damage through overheating. For more information about the maximum temperature recommendation please visit this documentation page.

We've focussed on cutting as much bulk from the E3D V6 as possible. Our new thermistor cartridge simply slides into place and is secured with a single screw. We use high temperature glass sleeving to insulate the thermistor legs as well. This makes installing or removing the thermistor a quick and clean process compared to previous methods involving fiddly taping.

We've kept our sharp thermal transition that gives the high quality printing performance users have come to expect from E3D HotEnds. A sharp thermal break gives better control over filament output so you get more immediate start and stops when extruding as well as retracts that are more effective in combating ooze. This means sharper, more accurate prints that have less stringing, oozing or blobbing.

PT100 TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 - is not defined in Marlin

The V6 is a fully-integrated part of the E3D Ecosystem. Our range of nozzles and blocks gives you more opportunity to choose how you want to print. Choose from different filament diameters and materials to take your printing to the next level, and upgrade for ultra high-temperature printing!

We also maintain our own E3D Forum where many people share and collaborate on clever solutions for mounting on various printers. We value the community that use our product and look to support development wherever possible. We're always there to support you in using your HotEnd - whether that means giving advice on public forums, or private email support by our contact system.

Included in every PowerUp add-on. The tubing used is a specially selected P Titan Extruder Performance, Power, Push. Titan brings high performance, l Add to Basket. Share via:. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery.

Print All The Things Easily print any filament on the market with less stringing and clogging. Support at Every Step We can help with everything from mounting to troubleshooting with our Wiki and dedicated support team. Please be aware that the discount code in the above video is no longer valid.

Read all about the design and research that have gone into making the E3D V6 the market-leading HotEnd in our behind-the-scenes blog post! Assembly guidelines for the v6 can be found here


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